How to Straighten Black Hair Without Breakage
- 1). Prepare your scalp for the relaxer. Avoid scratching your scalp or washing it for at least three days prior to using a relaxer, as your fingernails create tiny cuts on your scalp. When applying the relaxer to your hair the chemical can seep into the cut, which can cause chemical burns and require washing the area thoroughly to reduce irritation. Washing your hair prior to relaxing opens your pores, which leaves your hair susceptible to scalp burning.
- 2). Apply petroleum jelly to base your scalp. A base protects and cools your skin from the chemical relaxer, and should be applied to skin that will come in contact with the chemical. Olive oil also works if your relaxer kit doesn't include a base treatment.
- 3). Separate your hair into four sections by parting your hair down the middle of your scalp with a thin-toothed comb, and then part a line horizontally across the back of your head. Create another horizontal line in each section if you have long hair to ensure you apply the relaxer to the new growth. Be sure to check the time frequently to prevent leaving the relaxer on for longer than directed. The length of time is determined by the coarseness of your hair, and is listed on your relaxer kit instructions.
- 4). Thoroughly wash your hair. Set the water's temperature to warm and wash out the chemical completely. Once all of the chemical relaxer is removed use a neutralizing shampoo to restore your pH balance. According to "Beautiful Black Hair" your hair's normal pH balance is 7 and increases to 14 when first relaxed. Forgoing the neutralizing shampoo cause the relaxer to over-process your hair, which causes the hair to fall out. Gently work the shampoo through your hair and rinse it out. Some shampoos will change to a shade of pink when it comes in contact with the chemicals in the relaxer as an indicator that there is still chemical in your hair. Once you thoroughly wash your hair, the shampoo residue should turn white.
- 5). Follow up with a protein moisturizing conditioner. A protein moisturizing conditioner provides vitamins and nutrients lost during the relaxing process, which maintains your hair's health and restores softness and manageability. Gently work the conditioner through your hair and allow it to sit for five to seven minutes, followed by thoroughly rinsing it out. Apply a setting lotion and comb your hair using a wide-toothed comb. Allow your hair to air dry.
