Installing Wood Siding
In installing wood siding, many individuals make the mistake of not sealing the material prior to installment.
It is extremely important to protect the wood and ensure that the stain or paint applied later will last.
Moisture traveling through wood cause the stain film to blister or peal.
Back primer is very important when Cedar Redwood or wood with a high extractive chemical content is installed.
Another huge mistake during installation that is commonly made is the failure of installing felt beneath wood siding.
Building paper that is water-resistant can also be used and when installing building paper, ensure the first piece overlaps the foundation top by one inch.
The use of the right nails is another very important factor as it must be long enough for it to go through the sheathing, siding and then into the wood.
The proper nails and nailing technique should always be top most in buying materials for the installing.
Materials and tools needed: Wood siding Corner boards Hammer Circular saw Measuring square Siding nails Scaffolding Overlapping horizontal boards that can range from four to twelve inches in width and an overlap of two inches are used when installing wood siding.
A V-ship lap, a rabited bevel, a plain bevel, a cove ship Lapp, and tongue and groove are some of the various types of horizontal joints used through which siding gets fastened to a wall frame when installing the siding.
The siding boards are cut to desired length by using a circular saw, while making sure each joint will fall on a stud.
Here you use a measuring square ensuring every board is cut into exact squares.
Uneven gaps will be visible at the joints if not square, making the finished wall unsightly.
To guard against jagged and splintered edges it is recommended to cut very slowly.
The best option of installation is from the bottom up and typically requires scaffolding in completing a single story structure.
The lowest siding board installed on the bottom of the plywood sheeting in a way to project an inch below the foundation wall's top.
The siding is nailed through the beveled edge of the lower board as well as into every stud at the bottom of upper board.
When the material, the topmost board's width is shortened or ripped along its length, to enable it to but up against the soffit.
The ripped edge is usually covered with frieze board that is nailed through the sheathing and the siding and then the wood studs.
Siding that is installed onto gable ends are cut at the specific angle of the roof pitch where a wall will meet the fascia or the rake.
Accuracy is very important, thus when making angled cuts, each board's dimensions must be measured.
Measure the boards along the bottom edge to the long point, then along the top edge towards the short point.
A vertical corner board is usually installed before wood siding to ensure the snugly fit of the siding buts against its edge.
When installation is done the siding is fitted the same way against window casing and doors.
If a corner board is not used, a siding board of adjacent walls will extend to meet in a mitered joint in the corner.
It is extremely important to protect the wood and ensure that the stain or paint applied later will last.
Moisture traveling through wood cause the stain film to blister or peal.
Back primer is very important when Cedar Redwood or wood with a high extractive chemical content is installed.
Another huge mistake during installation that is commonly made is the failure of installing felt beneath wood siding.
Building paper that is water-resistant can also be used and when installing building paper, ensure the first piece overlaps the foundation top by one inch.
The use of the right nails is another very important factor as it must be long enough for it to go through the sheathing, siding and then into the wood.
The proper nails and nailing technique should always be top most in buying materials for the installing.
Materials and tools needed: Wood siding Corner boards Hammer Circular saw Measuring square Siding nails Scaffolding Overlapping horizontal boards that can range from four to twelve inches in width and an overlap of two inches are used when installing wood siding.
A V-ship lap, a rabited bevel, a plain bevel, a cove ship Lapp, and tongue and groove are some of the various types of horizontal joints used through which siding gets fastened to a wall frame when installing the siding.
The siding boards are cut to desired length by using a circular saw, while making sure each joint will fall on a stud.
Here you use a measuring square ensuring every board is cut into exact squares.
Uneven gaps will be visible at the joints if not square, making the finished wall unsightly.
To guard against jagged and splintered edges it is recommended to cut very slowly.
The best option of installation is from the bottom up and typically requires scaffolding in completing a single story structure.
The lowest siding board installed on the bottom of the plywood sheeting in a way to project an inch below the foundation wall's top.
The siding is nailed through the beveled edge of the lower board as well as into every stud at the bottom of upper board.
When the material, the topmost board's width is shortened or ripped along its length, to enable it to but up against the soffit.
The ripped edge is usually covered with frieze board that is nailed through the sheathing and the siding and then the wood studs.
Siding that is installed onto gable ends are cut at the specific angle of the roof pitch where a wall will meet the fascia or the rake.
Accuracy is very important, thus when making angled cuts, each board's dimensions must be measured.
Measure the boards along the bottom edge to the long point, then along the top edge towards the short point.
A vertical corner board is usually installed before wood siding to ensure the snugly fit of the siding buts against its edge.
When installation is done the siding is fitted the same way against window casing and doors.
If a corner board is not used, a siding board of adjacent walls will extend to meet in a mitered joint in the corner.
