Camshaft Basics
- The first major decision point for cam selection is what you intend to use the vehicle for. Cams with smaller lobes don't open the valves as much or as long as those with larger ones. Smaller cams in general produce lower-rpm torque, and larger ones move the power-band higher up for more horsepower.
If your car does not already come equipped with one, consider installing a hydraulic roller cam. These cam types use a special follower with a roller tip to more closely follow the lifter lobe, resulting in a more powerful and efficient engine. - Stock cams from original equipment manufacturers are always a safe bet, as are those made by in-house tuners like Ford's SVT, Chrysler's SRT, Nissan's Stillen or Honda's Spoon. Aftermarket companies like Crane, Edelbrock, CompCams and 5Zigen all have excellent reputations, warranties and customer service for anyone from the first time engine-builder to the hardcore racer.
It is always best to stay away from the cheapest cam kits on the market, as these components see a lot of stress and can fail prematurely if manufacturing quality is poor. - When installing your cam, always install new lifters unless your engine has overhead cams or factory hydraulic lifters. Even then, inspect the contact components carefully, as even roller lifters will wear over time. Consider replacing your valve-springs and retainers with lighter and stronger units. With the increased rpm experienced by most modified engines, new valve-springs are cheap insurance against major damage, and lighter components will allow you to fully exploit your new power-band. Titanium valve retainers are relatively inexpensive and are known to give an otherwise unmodified engine 500 more rpm before valve float than stock retainers.
